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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.